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Mustard Trilogy 3: Nepali Cucumber Salad
February 5, 2010 |
Mustard Trilogy 1: Shorshe Dharosh
Mustard Trilogy 2: Vellarikka Pachadi
We had so many cucumbers last summer that we were distributing bagfuls to whoever would take them. Here’s a wonderful salad starring raw mustard oil - drizzled over the dish the same way extra virgin olive oil is used to flavour Mediterranean dishes.
Unlike the fruity flavour of olive oil, cold-pressed mustard oil is hot and nutty - like horseradish (wasabi). The raw oil has a strong sinus-irritating aroma that takes some getting used to, but when you do, it’s addictive.
Mustard oil one of the healthiest oils to consume, especially for vegetarians who don’t eat fatty fish. In South Asia, it has been used for centuries for cooking and for therapeutic purposes - for massaging babies, to treat ringworms, to reduce body heat, as an antibacterial aid. Until recently, it was considered highly toxic in Europe and North America.
Even today, it is not legal to sell it in the U.S. for edible purposes. Ever seen the bottle of 100% mustard oil sold in Indian stores? It’s labelled “for external use only”. Else, they have the disgusting “mustard-flavoured” soybean oil.
Mustard oil - like its close cousin rapeseed oil - has between 20 to 40% erucic acid, which was found to have carcinogenic effects in rats. The FDA was also concerned about the high levels of allyl isothiocyanate, derivatives of which can be used for chemical weapons.
Further studies showed that it was the vegetable oil itself (not the erucic acid in it) that was the culprit, because rats are not capable of synthesizing it. More recent studies have shown that mustard oil (along with a plant-rich diet) is almost as effective as fish oil in reducing the risk of ischemic heart disease and cardiac arrests. That’s because it’s rich in heart-healthy oleic and linoleic fatty acids.
What’s Right with Mustard Oil ?
- It has FLAVOUR. Unlike the dreaded “C” word that rhymes with “crapola”.
- It’s usually available unrefined and/or cold-pressed (kachi ghani). No chemical processes or toxic additives.
- It is one of the only non-saturated oils that DOES NOT start decomposing and losing flavour at smoking point. Smoke point is usually the juncture at which a fat begins to break down at the molecular level, leading to free radicals and cellular damage. Free radicals have been linked to cancer.
Unlike most other seed/vegetable oils, heating mustard oil to a high temperature neutralises the allyl isothiocyanate and actually makes it more rounded and mellow in flavour. Cooks in northern and Eastern India usually heat mustard oil to smoking point and cool it down for future use. This process, however, destroys many of the antioxidants and nutrients (including the omega fats) in the oil.
- It has the lowest level of saturated fat among vegetable oils at 12%. (Olive oil has 13%).
- It is rich in antioxidants and Omega-3 fatty acids.
An ideal intake ratio of Omega-6 to Omega-3 fatty acids is between 1:1 and 4:1, with most Americans only obtaining a ratio between 10:1 and 25:1. The minimum healthy intake for both alpha linolenic (Omega-3) and linoleic (Omega-6) acid via diet, per adult per day, is 1.5 grams of each. One tablespoon of flaxseed oil can provide this amount, or larger amounts of other linolenic-rich foods. Because high heat destroys linolenic acid, cooking in linolenic-rich oils or eating cooked linolenic-rich fish is unlikely to provide a sufficient amount. (Source)
What that implies is that raw sources of Omega 3 (like walnuts, flax, wheat-germ, melon seeds, green leafy veggies, raw fish or cold-pressed oils), are much superior to cooked sources.
A carnivore can eat at least two servings of fatty fish a week, or get essentially fatty acids through sardine oil or cod liver oil. What about vegetarians/vegans?
Comparing Omega 3 acids in oils (grams per tablespoon)
Sources: tuft.edu and Pennington Nutrition Series
Flax seed oil - 6.9
Walnut oil - 1.4 g
Canola oil - 1.3
Soybean oil, unhydrogenated - 0.9
Mustard Oil: 0.8
Olive Oil - 0.1
The numbers are for the oils when consumed COLD. Imagine consuming canola or soybean oil uncooked. Blech.
If you find the flavour/aroma of Mustard Oil too strong
I often find that fumes from heating mustard oil will burn my eyes. Mix it with an equal part of any other non-genetically modified oil. Or cook (subjecting to heat) with oil of choice and drizzle a dash of raw mustard oil on top for flavour and nutrients.
What’s Wrong with Canola Oil?
That’s like asking
“What’s wrong with adding an inflatable plastic arm and a sequined tank top to the Venus of Milo?”
That’s what you get when you take rapeseed (which is nutritionally similar to mustard oil), genetically modify it to bring the erucic acid level down to 3%, bleach it, deodorise it, strip it of its nutrients, make it odourless and flavourless and market it as a “health food”. Of course, Monsanto and some politicians would like us to believe that mustard oil is awful and canola, soybean and corn oil are the panacea for everything that’s wrong with the universe.
The Mustard Oil Conspiracy by Vandana Shiva.
A lot of things are wrong with canola oil. It merits a whole separate post - next week when I have a bit more time and lock up the furball who thinks it is her solemn duty to “help” me when I’m typing.
NEPALI CUCUMBER SALAD with Hot Spiced Mustard Dressing
This recipe is from Mangoes and Curry Leaves by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid. They are outstanding food photographers and chroniclers.
The original has a spice called ‘Timbur‘ or ‘Timur‘ (Nepali Pepper/Xanthoxylum alatum) which lends a tangy note to the dish. Since it’s not easily available outside Nepal, the authors advise adding a dash or lemon juice/yogurt or a combo. You can also substitute it with anardana (pomegranate seed) powder or sumac if you wish.
Cut half pound cucumbers (preferably English or pickling) after discarding most of the seeds into 1.5 inch long matchsticks.
Place in a colander, sprinkle with 2 tbsp salt and leave in a sink to drain.
Roast separately in a dry skillet on medium heat until aromatic
1 tbsp sesame seeds (brown or white)
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
Powder fine in a spice or coffee grinder and add
2 tbsp plain yogurt or water (I used water)
I also like to add 2 tsp raw mustard oil to this paste.
Rinse the cucumbers, pat dry (or squeeze gently to remove excess liquid) , add the spice paste and coat all over.
Heat 1.5 tsps mustard oil over medium and add
1/8 tsp each fenugreek (methi) and nigella (kalonji) seeds
1 green cayenne chilli slit lengthwise
Add
a pinch each of cayenne and turmeric powders
Stir and pour the oil over the cucumbers. Toss and add
1 tbsp lemon juice (I used 1.5 tbsp since I didn’t use yogurt)
Mix gently and set aside for 20 minutes for the flavours to blend. Just before serving add
more salt if you wish
2-3 tbsps minced coriander leaves/cilantro
Burpless Pickling Cucumbers (County Fair Hybrid)
Armenian Cucumber
- bee
Chillies/Peppers, Cilantro/Coriander Leaves, Cucumber, cumin, Fenugreek (Methi), GARDENING, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, Lemon/Lime, Mangoes and Curry Leaves, mustard, mustard-oil, Nepal, nigella-seeds, NUTRITION, Omega-3, Sesame Seeds, vegan recipes, vegetarian recipes
Oh I almost forgot! You can find timur (sichuan pepper) and any Asian store. It’s a reddish pepper that looks like its slightly cracked. I got a small packet (50gms) for like $1.50 or something.
timur, i believe is slightly different from sichuan pepper, though closely related. sichuan pepper is “Xanthoxylum piperitum” while nepal pepper is “Xanthoxylum alatum”. you can try using one in lieu of the other, though timur is more sour than sichuan pepper.
I love mustard, love cucumbers, love nepali food and I LOVE this blog
This is such a delcious dressing.
that is one delicious looking salad bee.
Siri
I don’t think I’ve ever tasted mustard oil. Your posts and the pictures make me want to try it. It’s been about 5 years since I stopped using Crapola/Con-ola regularly for cooking and even when I did use it, I used it only for a short time. I had a small bottle of it that I used occasionally in baked recipes that called for vegetable oil but tossed away the last of it last summer.
Yesterday, I found a bottle of unopened Sesame Oil (Idhayam) in my pantry and the aroma was so intoxicating that I had to use it right away. Do you know if the sesame oil we get in the Indian stores is unrefined?
i think it is unrefined. try this brand
http://www.tropicaltraditions.com/organic_sesame_oil.htm
you can get organic cold pressed or expeller pressed in health food stores, etc.
Great post! This is the first I’ve heard about mustard oil.
This has to be the most delicious salad, ever! The first picture is soooooooo gorgeous!
A few days ago I bought Mangoes and Curry Leaves and I love it. I’m away from home now, but can’t wait to get into it again. I did wonder whether you might have got the recipe from there when I read the title, and so you did!
I think this dressing would work for other veg, too. Carrots perhaps? Fennel? Courgettes when in season, too, of course.
I meant to ask about buying mustard oil. Are you saying that stuff that’s marked ‘for external use only’ should work, too? In my local supermarkets, I saw two or types, one cheap, the other pricey (the latter was Dabur brand, i think). Thanks!
dabur should work. if it says cold-pressed or kachi ghani, even better. do not buy “mustard-flavoured” oil.
My dad used to bathe my son using mustard oil..but weve never used it for cooking purposes…great post..
Great post. I gave up on canola many years ago after I researched it. At the moment, I have peanut oil, coconut and olive oil. I like sesame as well, but the one from the Indian store seems to have a plasticky smell. I’m gonna get mustard oil next time..I love the aroma actually, bring back memories of tel maalish
The only time I’ve used it for cooking is in achari subzis.
I am drooling over the salad pics. I am also sitting here with my head hanging down in shame after reading about crapola oil!! I used EVOO for everything but frying and after hearing about GMO corn in corn oil, I switched to Canola since a health professional told me it’s healthier…so much for that! Well, I am off to gettin’ myself some mustard oil and organic coconut oil. Oh, any issues with cholesterol/triglycerides in coconut oil??
in moderation and at moderate temps, extra virgin coconut oil is great. or try spectrum organic expeller-pressed light sesame oil. or grapeseed oil.
That’s scary about Canola oil. I’ve been using the Whole Foods brand organic expeller-pressed canola oil for sauteing and other high-heat cooking- does that fall into the same evil category as the mass-produced horror the website you provided a link to writes about? Perhaps I should switch to peanut oil (I use the Spectrum brand refined organic peanut oil) for all my everyday cooking. Your advice, please? Thanks!
organic expeller pressed is the only acceptable type of canola oil. i will explain why in a new post.
Hi jai & bee,
What oil do you use for tadka (thaalippu) in your daily cooking for simple South Indian dishes like rasam, keerai masiyal, etc? Mustard oil would be strong, right? Also, how about for simple vegetable curries.
V
organic expeller-pressed light sesame oil or idhayam sesame oil. else, extra virgin coconut oil. jai uses ghee. expeller pressed grapeseed oil works too.
Thanks for the tip! I believe in the virtues of ghee but V resists sometimes! But he did change his mind a bit after reading this about these local guys making ghee -
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/01/14/DDTI1BF56L.DTL
(I make my own ghee)
V
OK, thanks for the tip! I’ll now go to my local stores, armed with new knowledge! hehe
Your posts are so informative. Thank you! What is the oil suitable for deep frying?
[...] Mustard Trilogy 3: Nepali Cucumber Salad [...]
I have their book and saw this recipe. I’ve been meaning to try it… now your post has definitely pushed me to do so. Gosh my mouth is watering at the thought of eating this.
Love the salad- love mustard oil - Fabindia here sells organic cold presssed mustard oil - it tastes yummy in North Indian pickles.