My wily mama may have called them “beef croquettes”. Let me explain.

I was the dream child. Didn’t care much for sweets, loved veggies, especially the bitter ones like bittergourd and fenugreek, made no fuss about eating anything made at home. Then, when I was six or so, all hell broke loose.

I started going to a daycare type of place. The lady there made the most incredible kind of food and was like a mother figure to me. She fed me whatever she fed her kids, and they were things I’d never eaten before – fish, chicken, mutton (goat), beef and pork. My mom was raised vegetarian and cooked and ate only vegetarian. I came home from daycare and declared that I didn’t want dinner or breakfast the next morning. I would wait until lunch the next day ‘cos I liked only that lady’s food.

My mom wondered why and I told her I would eat the “nice” food at “aunty’s place”.

“We don’t eat meat at home,” my mom patiently explained.

“But dad eats it,” I replied.

“Only outside the house,” she said.

I said, “Fine. Then I want that aunty to adopt me. I like her food.”

For many days after that, I would take my lunchbox to school and bring it untouched to the daycare lady’s house. I would then eat what she had cooked. So my mom made a deal with her. She started paying her for my meals as well. And she started learning how to cook meat.

She befriended a fishmonger who would cut and clean fish and even give her recipes. My mom started eating fish and chicken. Then I become totally insufferable. I decided I loved fish, didn’t care for chicken and adored mutton, beef and spicy pork sausages from Goa.

Those days, one couldn’t buy frozen meat from the store. One had to go to the butcher – where one would be greeted by hanging carcasses. That was hard for my poor mom to stomach. So she made up a story.

“Hindus don’t eat beef,” she said.

“The daycare aunty has a big temple in her house with all the gods and goddesses. She eats beef and everything else,” I replied. True. ‘Cos the daycare lady was from Kerala and she cooked and ate everything that moved. By now, I’d even eaten frogs’ legs. Many Keralite Hindus eat all kinds of meat.

My mom registered that and said, “Well, some Hindus regard cows as sacred.”

“Why?”, I asked.

“‘Cos they give us milk,” she said.

“But I’ve been to the tabela (dairy farm) and the milk we get is buffalo milk. Why is the buffalo not sacred?” I asked.

“I have no idea,” my mom said.

“Listen mom, I have decided that I don’t want to be a Hindu, ‘cos I love beef”, I declared.

My mom decided that cooking beef was easier than arguing with a bratty six-year-old, so she struck a deal with a neighbour to buy meat for her when she went to the butcher.

She cooked fish or meat at least twice a week, but once in a while, I suspect, she tried to pull a fast one. She made things that looked and tasted like lentil fritters (vadas) sometimes and called them “beef croquettes”. I would eat everything on my plate as long as it had one item with “beef” or “mutton” or “pork” or “fish” in its name. I have a strong hunch that many of the items she passed off as “non-veg” were actually vegetarian.

Horse gram: Dried and Sprouted

Macrotyloma uniflorum, Gahat (Uttarakhand), Kollu (Tamil) Ulavalu (Telugu), Kulith (Marathi), Hurali (Kanada), Kulath, Kulthi (Konkani), Kollu/Muthira (Malayalam).

Horse gram is used as food in India and also as fodder for horses and cattle. In South India, it is consumed for medicinal purposes – to help fight jaundice, iron deficiencies, arthritis and obesity. It’s regular peasant fare in Maharashtra and Karnataka, with the beans used to make a warm salad (usal/kosambari) and the liquid used to cook them flavoured into a delicious soup (saar).

J’s been away traveling for a while now and I’m too lazy to make two dishes while cooking for myself. So I ground up some sprouts with some seasonings to make fritters for dinner. Much like these Lentil Fritters (Parippu Vadas). You can make these with any soaked or sprouted beans/lentils.

**Kidney beans, cannellini beans, hyacinth beans and soybeans (soaked and/or sprouted) need to be boiled for at least 10 minutes to neutralise the toxins they contain before being made into fritters.

I used my cast iron aebleskiver (appam) pan as usual.

HORSE GRAM COCKTAIL FRITTERS

(Makes 20-21 cocktail vadas)

1 cup horse gram soaked for 8 hours, drained and left to sprout for another day.
**the measurement is before soaking. simply soaked horse gram would also work
2 tbsps chopped red onion/shallots
2 to 3 chopped serrano or Thai bird chillies
1 tsp chopped ginger
1.5 tbsps brown rice flour
**optional. it makes them crisper
2 cloves chopped garlic
salt to taste
1/4 cup loosely packed cilantro
1/3 tsp each ground cumin and coriander
2 tsps lime juice
3.5 tbsps vegetable oil

1. Separate out 1/3 of the lentils. Pulse everything (except the cilantro and salt) to a coarse paste in a blender adding no water, or as little as possible.
2. Add the remaining lentils and blend a little more until 2/3 of the mixture is almost smooth and the remaining 1/3 is coarse. Add the cilantro and salt.
3. Heat oil in the appam / aebleskiver pan on medium-high – with about 1.5 tsps vegetable oil per slot. You can also deep fry this in a regular pan with 2 to 3 cups of oil.
4. Gently drop heaped teaspoons of the lentil mixture into the oil.
5. Fry until golden brown on one side (about 3 minutes), then using a skewer or fork, gently turn them over.
6. Fry till golden brown on the other side, remove and put on paper towels to drain.
7. For the second and third batches, reduce the heat to medium-low.
8. If you let them sit on the paper towel for about 5 minutes after frying, they will crispen further.

I got three batches fritters – 21 in all, and didn’t add any extra oil after the first round. Even though the oil had dried up by the third round, they toasted to a crisp texture.

These are great as they are, as “falafels” in pita, or in a sandwich.

Today’s dinner. Horse Gram Cocktail Fritters with Cilantro Chutney, Sweet Chilli Garlic Sauce and Tamarind-Date Chutney.

These cocktail fritters go to

Courtney @ Coco Cooks for My Legume Love Affair: Starters and Desserts.

and

Srivalli @ Cooking 4 All Seasons for Monthly Mingle: Kids’ Lunches.

POST-DINNER EXERCISE

I recently downloaded the album AVIAL from Amazon by Malayalam rock band Avial. Hook it up to speakers and enjoy some explosive bass guitar.

I don’t even like rock music, but this band I totally dig. They take folk songs and set them to modern tunes.

This song’s called Adu Pambe (Sway Snake). The audio and video are not totally in sync. Eat your fritters and try to sway like a snake (like the lead singer). :D I did.

The lyrics are from an old folk song by Pambatti Siddar. The ‘Snake’ here is a metaphor for the human mind.

nAthar muDi mEl irukkum nAgap-pAmbE
naccup- paiyai vaittirukkum nalla pAmbE
pAtALattirk-kUDip-pOghum paikoL pAmbE
pADip-pADi ninru viLaiyADu pAmbE

vaLai pughum pOdEdalai vAngum pAmbE
maNDalamiTTuDal vaLai vaNNam pAmbE
taLaikkanji ninriDum sattiyap-pAmbE
taiayeDuttE nI viLaiyADu pAmbE

kuTramaTra shivanukku kuNDalamAnAi
kUrum tirumAlinukkuk-kuDaiyimAnAi
kaTraikkuzhal pArvatikkuk-kankaNamAnAi
karavAmal uLam kaLittu Adu pADu pAmbE

maNDalattait-tAngu migha vallamai koNDAi
mAyanukkp-paDukkaikku vaNNap-pAyumAnAi
kaNDa paDai naDungiDak-kATSiyum peTrAi
kaNNE sheviyAghak-koNDAi ADu pAmbE

candiranai sUriyanait-tAvit-tINDinAi
shankaranukku AbaraNam tAnum AghinAi
mantratukk-aDangiyE maNDalamiTTAi
vaLaindu vaLaindu ninrADum pAmbE

The original lyrics are in Tamil. Can someone please translate them to English for me?

Update: Got the translation. Thanks, Nirmala.

See y’all next week.

- bee

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66 Comments

  1. Nirmala says:

    Hey Bee, thats a nice story about how u got converted into a non-vegetaian :) And wonder how much you have changed and now put in so much effort to tell the world the power of Veganism! You Mom’s soul would be pretty happy I think :) And now you sound truly like a mom’s kid :) And I was not able to view the video clip but that song is in Tamil! I being a classical dancer have danced to this song several times! Just read the lyrics in “Tamil” and you can easily understand. I shall send you a translation soon!

    i was wondering what kind of ‘malayalam’ that was. :D

  2. sunita says:

    What a story…I think all moms resort to cheating at times to make their kids eat things they wouldn’t otherwise :-) …love the vadas:-)

  3. Raaga says:

    My comments are not appearing here…

    nice vades… will try. Had falafel on monday and thought to myself… long time since I had dal vadas!

  4. sra says:

    Nice story, Bee! I’ve eaten quite a bit of “meat pickle” supplied by kind Malayali friends in hostel, only to discover later that it was beef – I’m the non-beef eating type of Hindu, you see! :-D And later, I tried beef cutlets with full awareness. Didn’t like.

    An uncle says, why shouldn’t I eat meat, all the gods and goddesses do.

    In coastal AP (and maybe in other parts too), in the villages, horse gram is slow-cooked underground in a pit and the resultant thick broth is enhanced with tamarind, onion and chilli and eaten with rice and cream. *Ssslurpp!*

  5. Miri says:

    This song gets a lot of airtime on my favourite FM show (this guy plays really good English music) – a huge surprise for me the first time I heard it since hearing anything other Bhangra Pop in saddi dilli is a miracle!

    The fritters look really crispy – amazing to think they were made without being deep fried!

    Miri

  6. Rosa says:

    These fritters look so good! I love that first shot!

    Cheers,

    Rosa

  7. Asha says:

    If we tell our grandparents that we eat beef, we will be outcasted, disowned from Shaiva veg eating family etc! :D

    Kulith Vade looks yummy. I soaked a whole pack of Hurulikalu, will be making my ajjis special with that. I love that beans.

    Have a wonderful long weekend. Kids are not off Friday but have Spring break whole next week, Arvind is off Friday but on call this weekend. So I am stuck at home either way! :p

  8. Bluemist says:

    Bee
    Just a quick question whether this appam mould method will work for onion fritters as well ? Tried any time ?

    we make those all the time. they turn out very well.

  9. Soma says:

    These fritters looks really really good!! Quite a rebel you were huh?!:-D Reminds me of the chana dal ones my grandma would make & they would taste like mutton too. Lovely picture.

    Very cute picks.

  10. Ammini says:

    Bee:
    Great story! I really understand how your mother must have felt when you started eating non veg food.I used pack my sons’ lunch boxes with cheese or peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and they came back unopened. They loved the food at the cafeteria in school- and in Texas what else- lot of beef dishes.

    The recipe for horse gram fritters looks very good. I will certainly try it. By the way you had the name for horsegram in various languages- in Malayalam it is called both kollu and Muthira depending on different regions of Kerala.

    thanks for the malayalam name for horse gram, amminichechi. good to see you here.

  11. Rashmi says:

    Bee

    Thanks for sharing a glimpse of your childhood…..i guess all mom’s in the world will cheat their kids to get them eat their veggies,which otherwise they wonn’t….i made your smoothy yesterday and even today morning….i could see the difference…they kept me full till lunch….and for the entire day i didnt nibble in between….thank you so much for the recipe…..i have one question ….Is 1.5 cups veggies include the greens and the non green ones?Thanks…

    there’s no set amount. you can use any amount you like. my measurement includes both – 1.5 cups veggies and fruits each for two people.

  12. Anjali says:

    I too was crazy about fish ..really fresh fish straight from our family boat. Then there was the turning point. I was never crazy of meat except if it was a mutton treat by my Mama(maternal uncle). I know a Namboodiri who loves to hunt frogs and eat them too. He learnt to do it while in Portland and that is his hobby he says. There are some people in Thal who eat rats too.Yuck!

  13. Anjali says:

    adding …same pinch for the relish forks

  14. Oh Bee, I really really loved this post. I love to hear how your food tastes were acquired and how your mom handled the situation. What a great story! These fritters look absolutely delicious and I think using the aebleskiver pan is ingenious! Nice work!

  15. Cilantro says:

    You have been asking toooo many questions… I pity your mom. My daughter too asks too many questions. she needs explanation for everything but I have`nt eaten beef for her. She does though. No explanation convinces her.
    Vadai/Fritters looks delicious. Would like to try them.
    Song is good. Enjoyed listening to it.

  16. Cham says:

    That is a funny story, how u got hooked to Non-veg! I was huge non-veg eater, tasted beef to frog/snails outside of home! My mom said i am gonna get a vegetarian as a life patner! I even bet I can convert him easily non-veg, but I failed but happy that he eats at least chicken and egg! It looks like Keeema balls!
    I remember this “Adu Pambe” old songs!

  17. Rashmi says:

    Thanks Bee..Have a great weekend….

  18. I loved reading the conversation between you and your mom..
    My mom often makes these horse-gram fritters.The food picks are so cute..Nice shots :)

  19. Laavanya says:

    My mom started cooking with eggs (just boiled/omelette) for us with so much difficulty so I can imagine how tough it must’ve been for your mom to give in to this non-veg phase you were in. Now i’m a bit worried about what to expect from my daughter in another 3 yrs :)

    The vadais look so good.

  20. Thank you for the entry. Love how you cooked them. Smart. Great story to read as well.

  21. Lisa says:

    Very entertaining post! And I love these fritters. I have a well stocked kitchen, but I have been meaning to get one of those cast iron pans.

  22. Anonymous says:

    well i have been having horsegram for a year now in my pantry wonder y it never struck me to do fritters !!

  23. vineela says:

    Hi Bee,
    Love the horsegram fritters.
    My mom makes rasam and my grandmom make podi with horsegram.
    Once i sprouted and used in veggie gravy for roti.
    Thanks for sharing with beautiful pictures.

  24. Vaishali says:

    What a riveting story! I think you met your match in your mom, Bee :)
    I love these gram “felafels.” They look great and sound delicious. Gotta get me one of those appam pans.

  25. Moi says:

    Love the video and the recipe.

  26. SuperChef says:

    Ohh Bee, that was hilarious ” I dont want to be a hindu cos i love beef!!” I will always remeber that one!

    n I love Avial. We got their CD this time when we went to India! Great one! :)

  27. varsha says:

    Bee..Are you a malayali? I am a hindu Malayali..we do eat everything except pork..My..u were a stubborn kid.. :D
    The look like beef croquettes..yum..I loved the last pic.. :)
    (btw,seems like ur comment box has an embedded link to an archive page.i had to hit tab from my website coloumn to come here..!!)

    yes, i am malayali. don’t know why you can’t access the comments box. i tested it and it seems to be okay. could you let us know where exactly it takes you or what it tells you? sorry about that.

  28. le says:

    Ur meat cravings burned themselves out at an early age which infact makes u vegetarian for most part of ur life by choice.. Love the kollu fritters.

  29. le says:

    By the way, this band rocks well!

  30. Uma says:

    Totally enjoyed reading this post Bee! You have a good mom, who converted herself into non-veg just for her daughter! :)

    Fritters look so gorgeous and mouth-watering. Great pics as always!

  31. Nitha says:

    Hello,
    Lovely looking vada’s. Brown and crispy.I thought it was cutlet @ first glance.
    Bee, I guess not all the mallu hindu’s use beef and pork. It is banned in my community(nair). I remember my dad bringing fried beef from hotel and my mother throwing it out to the adjacent vacant land :) My love for beef, started in hostel and ended in hostel.
    - Nitha

    i’m nair too, but my mom’s family was vegetarian.

  32. indosungod says:

    One of my most favorite legumes. These fritters sure would beat other legume fritters to pulp :) And the way you have them here kabobs would be beat to pulp too.

    My mom’s family was vegetarian and my grandfather would not let even egg inside the house. So we used to sneak to my mother’s first cousins house to eat some spicy chicken.

  33. Divya says:

    Great post! love the first pic!

  34. varsha says:

    Bee,good to know that you are a Malayali..:)
    Actually when I hover the hand icon over the comment box,at different points/places I can see it is pointing to different archives of the site.ie,beginning of the box points to coconut..next line to wheat etc..Guess the code of the tages at the bottom of the page is getting jumbled up..n it does happen only when the box is empty..means..now if I wana go to my first line,I can set my mouse there,but not to any empty spaces here..the whole comment page,others comments too, appears like that to me..
    Its ok..I can use the tab though..:)

  35. shilpa says:

    Wow..they look beautiful. I have to make them sometime.

  36. Priya says:

    wow…what a coincidence with an almost uncommon ingredient..i happen to make this just today. Made urundais in just the same way and made a puli kolambhu to make my hub and kid eat horse gram..he he..Only difference, i steamed it and it was almost like meat balls…(another coincidence is, i lied to my kiddo that they “are” meatballs and she relished it with ketchup)..

    One point though…the horse gram im getting here ..(swad, nirav n other brands) have lots of smalls stones in them. What brand did u use?

    That was really great of your mom to turn to be a non-vegetarian just for her kiddo. Happy to know a slice of her life.

    urundais in kuzhambu sound great. don’t remember which brand ours was.

  37. Johanna says:

    That’s great that your mum had to pretend the veg food was meat – a nice change from my meat loving family

  38. Manggy says:

    Oh, your mum is a million times more patient than I would have been! But all’s well that ends well, I guess :) (And you were sufficiently fooled, apparently.) I could totally forget about beef with these

  39. Alka says:

    I am craving for these fritters,i feel like eating them now….i said NOWWWWWWW……lol
    Well i guess all moms are similar, we as kids were fooled by our mom,and now we FOOL our kids the same way…but for their own good.
    My kid is not fond of bottle gourd ,but put some bottlegourd koftas in curry,and he even don’t knows what went in, similarly cabbage,beans etc when mixed in Noodles,tastes Yumm to him, cauliflower and carrots in parathas are relished by him,whereas sprouts in crisp puffed puris(paani puris sans chutney,but topped with some curd)disappear from his plate in no time.So this type of fooling around actually helps us to monitor their diet isn’t it ?
    Coming to these fritters, can i use regular rice flour instead of brown? will that still leaves them crisp?coz i would love crispier ones :-)

    any rice flour will work.

  40. Giff says:

    it sounds like you were a handful :) Kind of like what my daughter (now almost 4) is going to be!

  41. Deb says:

    You hit a nerve with this story – in a good way. It appears everybody is happily relating to the ways Moms and daughters/sons work through various food preferences at various ages.

    I will admit, as something of an outsider in this comment group, to being unfamiliar with many of the foods referenced. The love of culture, the sense of community, the shared pleasures at the table though, they all translate beautifully every time.

    Have a lovely weekend Bee and I’ll look forward to more stories of how Bee came to be Bee.

  42. Kiran says:

    Life does a full circle….
    I like this recipe, does it have to be sprouted ? It is a great idea to cheat and make foods that are good for us in a more flavourful way ;)

    no, just soaked is fine.

  43. farida says:

    Such an interesting read:) These fritters look very delicious. As I understand gram is lentil, right?

  44. Manasi says:

    Loved the little peek into ur childhood!
    Those wadas look delicious, must try but probably with beans, do not have kulith.
    I use kulith powder to make ‘pithla’ YUM!

  45. Aswathy says:

    Bee,
    Nice read! I am also from a Malayali Nair family and as you mentioned we do eat meat at home, though pork is not one of my favorites.
    Thanks for the recipe ..looks fairly simple to make . I will try it out soon and let you know.
    The pictures are beautiful.. the picks looks so elegant :)

    -Aswathy

  46. purplesque says:

    Wow..hadn’t seen horse gram in a while. The fritters look scrumptious.

    And thank you for suggesting frying things up in the aebleskiver pan- I no longer have to suffer through baked kadhi pakodas/koftas. A few drops of oil does the trick very well.

  47. Linda says:

    That’s the beauty of music Bee — never know just what will move you — no pun intended ;)

    I liked the video alot. You might check out Lou Reed — completely non-mainstream and bordering on offensive, to some — but there’s alot of substance behind the mean guitar feedback.

    Love the fritters and more so, the story :)

  48. Aparna says:

    You were some kid! :D
    Have to hand it to your mother as I have a daughter who’s always asking questions and definitely knows her mind.
    And now you are eating deep-fried stuff for dinner, Bee?
    I last heard that song when I was in school. :)

  49. Bharti says:

    Your mom was truly patient. I would simply refuse to make anything other than vegetarian food….and this in spite that I grew up eating meat. And I did not know that Hindus ate beef.
    I wish I could eat those fritters for dinner :-)

  50. Paz says:

    I like your mom. And you fritters. ;-)

    Paz

    P.S. You were a smart kid. ;-)



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