February 26, 2008 | 44 Comments
… with Lemon-Raspberry Mascarpone
While there are hundreds of cookbooks on breadbaking, there are not many devoted to bread science exclusively using whole grains. Those that do exist are mostly devoted to transitional breads – using part refined flour and part whole grains.
The reason lies in the nature of whole grains themselves.
In Whole Grain Breads, Peter Reinhart explains:
In baking, the magical dance between time, temperature and ingredients can take many forms in the relentless striving to create perfect loaves … My biggest challenge was getting the (whole grain) breads to rise to full size. In whole grain breads, the gluten, which traps gas and stretches like a balloon as the gas accumulates, is compromised by the fiber from the bran.
In this book, he modifies the delayed fermentation method, which he demonstrated so successfully in The Bread Baker’s Apprentice to create 100% wholegrain breads that are truly outstanding in flavour and texture.
It is a three-step process where he combines non-yeasted room temperature soaker dough with an equal amount of starter dough (either wild yeast starter or a commercially yeasted starter, called biga) to create a final dough that would “perform like epoxy and be stronger than the two pieces”.
Bagels are unique breads because they are boiled before being baked. This gives them their sought-after chewiness.
In his recipe for 100% whole wheat bagels, Reinhart says,
The delayed fermentation method is perfectly suited to 100% whole wheat bagels. Professionally made bagels are always held overnight before baking in order to create a better flavour and texture. The pre-dough method allows us to assemble the bagels at just the time we want to bake them yet still achieve their full potential in terms of both flavour and texture.
Bagel dough differs from other bread doughs in two ways. It is stiffer, so that the bagels do not rise too much and collapse during the boiling stage. The use of barley malt syrup or honey in the dough gives them flavour, as well as sheen.
Flavour-wise, they were outstanding. Texture-wise, they were crustier than what we’re used to in a bagel, and quite chewy inside.
100% WHOLE WHEAT BAGELS
(from Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads)
For the soaker:
227 grams (8 oz) – about 1.75 cups – whole wheat flour
4 grams (0.14 oz) – 0.5 tsp – salt
142 grams (5 oz) – half cup plus 2 tablespoons – filtered or spring water
35.5 grams (1.25 oz) – 2 tablespoons – barley malt syrup or honey
Mix them together in a bowl for a minute until the ingredients form a ball of dough. If you need more water or flour, add them a teaspoon at a time.
Cover with plastic wrap or a lid and leave it at room temperature for 12-24 hours. (Or refrigerate beyond that for upto 3 days, bring to room temperature and use.)
For the biga (yeasted starter):
227 grams (8 oz) – about 1.75 cups – whole wheat flour
1 gram (0.03 oz) – 0.25 tsp – instant yeast
142 grams (5 oz) – half cup plus 2 tablespoons – filtered or spring water at room temperature
Mix them together in a bowl for a minute until the ingredients form a ball of dough. Knead for about 2 minutes. The dough will be tacky. If you need more water or flour, add them a teaspoon at a time. Rest for 5 minutes, knead with wet hands for a minute.
Cover tightly with plastic wrap or a lid and refrigerate for atleast 8 hours and up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature and use.
7 gram (0.25 oz) – 2.25 tsp- instant yeast in
28.5 grams (1 oz) – 2 tablespoons – filtered or spring water at room temperature
Soaker – chopped or pinched into 12 pieces
Biga – chopped or pinched into 12 pieces
5 grams (0.18 oz) (about 5/8 tsp) salt
Mix and knead for about 5 minutes until well integrated. Add
56.5 grams (2 oz) whole wheat flour (about 7 tablespoons)
**start with 4 – we ended up using only 5 tbsps
Knead well for 5-7 minutes until you have a stiff but supple dough.
For into a ball, let it rest covered with a kitchen towel for 5 minutes and knead for another minute.
The dough should be supple, satiny, and pass the windowpane test.
Pinch off a small piece and stretch it slowly apart
Pulling and rotating it gently to stretch this piece of dough into a thin, translucent membrane.
If it tears easily, continue kneading a few more minutes and try the test again.
Roll the dough into a ball and swirl it around an oiled bowl to coat with the oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rise for 45-60 minutes until 1.5 times its original size.
There are several ways to shape bagels. Reinhart recommends the traditional rope method, which is what we used.
Divide the dough into about 6 five-ounce pieces. Work quickly since the dough tends to dry out, and avoid using too much flour, ‘cos it will affect the sheen. Keep a mister handy with water. It helps keep the dough from drying and also makes shaping easier.
Make an 8-inch rope with each piece of dough. Cover them. Take one and wrap it around your hand (palm up) like a bracelet. Bring the ends together overlapping a couple of inches, turn your palm down, and roll it gently on a damp, misted board until the ends merge. It takes practice. The hole will start merging while rising and boiling, so make sure it is much bigger than what you’d like it to be – 2 to 2.5 inches.
Place the bagels on a silicone or parchment-lined pan (if using parchment, spray oil on it) and cover loosely with cloth.
Preheat the oven to 500 F (260 C) and bring some water to boil in an electric kettle or on the stovetop.
We need 4 inches of water in a wide pot. Add 2 tsps baking soda to the water when it comes to a boil. The water will foam up. The time lag between shaping the bagels and getting the water to boiling point should not be over 20 minutes. Else, the bagels may rise and collapse.
Carefully lower the bagels one or two at a time into the alkalized boiling water. We prefer to do it by hand, ‘cos the bagels tend to stick to the spoon. Boil for 30 seconds on each side, then take them out gently with a slotted spoon, drain well, and place on the lined baking sheet.
When all the bagels have been boiled, brush them with
a beaten egg white (or milk – this is optional)
and add toppings of choice.
We used black poppy seeds.
Place the baking sheet in the oven, lower the temperature to 450 F (230 C), and bake them for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan and bake for another 10-12 minutes until they are rich brown on the top and bottom.
Cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes before serving.
Bagels are traditionally served with cream cheese. In order to cut down the sodium content, we used mascarpone, a rich, creamy Italian cheese. We flavoured ours with lemon and frozen raspberries from last year’s harvest.
3/4 cup mascarpone cheese
1/3 cup roughly chopped raspberries, fresh or frozen
2 tsps lemon or lime juice
1/2 tsp lemon zest
2 tsps cognac (optional)
honey to taste
Mix it all together.
Garnish with fresh raspberries.
Lemon-Raspberry Mascarpone is our entry for Jihva Lemon/Lime hosted by the Caffeine Goddess.
Jai’s entry for CLICK Flour
Camera: Canon EOS 300D
Lens: 100 mm macro
Shutter speed: 1/4 sec
ISO Speed: 200
Event details HERE
DEADLINE: February 29, 2008
Voting for CLICK Readers’ Choice Awards begins midnight, March 5, 2008, PST.