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Eating India
January 25, 2008 | 37 Comments
In Eating India, award-winning food writer Chitrita Banerji takes us on an extraordinary journey through a national cuisine formed by generations of arrivals, assimilations and conquests. Traveling across the length and breadth of the country—from Bengal to Goa and Karnataka, via the Grand Trunk Road, then northwards to Amritsar, Lucknow and Varanasi, on to Bombay and Kerala—Banerji discovers a civilization with an insatiable curiosity, one that consumes the old and the new with eager voracity.
Weaving together myths and folklore associated with food, the people and their culture, the author narrates captivating accounts of life in the subcontinent: the legend behind the weeklong harvest festival of Onam; the strictly observed rules of kosher in the Jewish households of Cochin; the best Benarasi thandai that has a dollop of bhang in it; and the food and culture of the indigenous people who hover on the edges of mainstream consciousness, among others.
“During my years as a food writer, I have championed the cause of regional cuisine as the only authentic culinary identity. I have scoffed at the mere mention of “Indian” food or curry powder, which I came across often enough in America. Yet it is becoming more and more apparent, even from faraway America, that an inevitable fusion of influences from disparate areas is changing the nature of regional foods and eating habits in India today.
And in fact, there is nothing new about this trend. The same Bengali cuisine that I wanted the world to know and appreciate, instead of focusing on the ersatz curries and tikka masalas available in Indian restaurants everywhere, has also evolved and changed over the centuries. Even a casual look at the pages of Bengali narratives going back to medieval times shows significant differences from the way we cook and eat in Bengal today. With the passage of the centuries, Bengali cuisine has eagerly taken and absorbed exotic ingredients, and repeatedly been modified by external influences. The same is true of other regional cuisines in the subcontinent.
In this context, what is authenticity? In an unstable, mobile age, when do the borders of regional uniqueness relax? Is it possible for specialties rooted in ingredient, terrain, altitude, soil, and cultural beliefs to survive in a time of rapid perpetual motion?”
Top to bottom: Masoor dal, Urad dal, star anise and Green split peas.
Republic Day greetings to our Indian readers.
Lentil tricolor goes to dear Pooja at My Creative Ideas for her Orange, White and Green event.
Filed Under: book, Chitrita Banerji, Eating India, history, India, lentil, lentil tricolor, Republic day, tricolor
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37 Comments
I bought that book last month, yet to read it beyond two pages!!;p
I have her Bengali book as well. I will read both after I finish reading my current book.Happy Republic day. Enjoy the weekend!:)
That’s a neat way to present our flag, good entry! Thanks to you now I know of the event
I loved the idea of the star anise in the middle
lovely idea for the pic
Thats exactly what one can expect from you Bee .One creative picture with wonderful photography .
. Stay tuned…
Its simply fabulous.
A very nice entry ,Thanks for being a part of celebration. Waiting for your email Bee.
Thanks, tomorrow I m gonna post something Tricolored for click too
Thanks for the book recommendation–it sounds wonderful! And I love the Indian flag made of dal–creative and appropriate for Republic Day!
What a beautiful picture!
Happy republic day to you too!! I thnk of this to be one of th e best pictures till date!!! I simply love it!!!
Lovely photo. Happy Republic Day !!
i should defenitely get a copy of that book… love indian authors!!
That book sounds really interesting – great excerpt – although makes me feel I don’t really understand ‘authentic’ Indian cooking – a feeling that I get when I read what some bloggers are cooking! My mum is reading a book by Lizzie Collingham about the history of curry at the moment and I am next in line to read it after her. But will keep an eye out for this book too.
It is strange it is Republic day in India – it is Australia Day here (and burns night in Scotland last night) – what is it about this time of year that makes people want to celebrate their nation? Hope you have a good Republic Day!
The book sounds wonderful. Thank you for the reco.
love the dal presentation with diya
I love the photo!
the most adorable interpretation of the event ….love the tiranga ….v cute …..Happy Republic Day !
I just finished reading this book..it is a wonderful journey into the culinary world
Beautiful tricolor picture! Happy Reublic Day to you as well, Bee and Jai.
Thats one beautiful pic B&J.. Happy Republic Day to u too! :horn:
~ Siri :love:
this is so true that our cuisine adapts to changes, and continually evolves, incorporating newly available ingredients in our preparations. which is why, while cooking for the traditionally performed ‘shraddham’ or death anniversary, only certain vegetables and spices are permitted — presumably those that were in use at these practices were introduced? which is also why i am continually amused by people who give me haughty comments like ‘we don’t use onions for bisi bhele bath’ :nono:
your photographs never cease to delight and amaze me. great photo! happy repubs day to you guys too!
sorry, typo. my statement should read ‘ — presumably those that were in use at THE TIME these practices were introduced?’
In appearance, too, it had the edge, a full-grown specimen being nearly two feet in length, its small silver scales shimmering vividly, its eyes like pale blue gemstones even in death.
followed by….
But this graceful “darling of the waters” may well be doomed to an existence only in memory and legend.
Great writing, but a vegetarian such as myself cannot bring myself to appreciate how both the above sentiments could co-exist.
fabulous idea for indian flag. Republic day wishes. Thanks for dropping by and double thanks for adding me to ur blogroll.
thats a beautiful picture!..
Happy Republic Day. Wonderful book review. Admire your creativity with Indian tricolor.
Thanks for visiting my blog.
I liked the excerpt from the book – it was fascinating. Thanks for introducing it to us.
Thats so creative! I know I shud be saying smthing abt your post on the book..but ur photo took the lead and i jus kept gaping at it till it was time for me to leave! will comment on that later..as of now..Your photo rocks! :bow:
Thanks for the book recommendation – must try to get hold of it from the library. Need I say, beautiful picture – love the use of star anise for the chakra.
Mamatha
The photo looks awesome. For some reason I have been missing so many posts from your blog. I will keep an eye more closely.
hno: :
love your photo as usual,Bee
oh boy!! everyone should learn how to make everything look prettier from you guys:) can i send a personal photo and you’ll can make us look like celebrities:)
Happy Republic Day to all indians…nice post!:)
thanks for the book review. it sure sounds interesting! the excerpts from the book were on thoughts we often ponder… “when do the borders of regional uniqueness relax?”
i will surely go for the book.
i know it goes without saying that you have an unique place here! happy republic day:)
Thats simple and pretty!
uhmm… u guys reviewing the book or just introducing it?did u like it?
just introducing it. we heard about it on NPR, but haven’t read it. – b.
I liked the book but found that it concentrated too heavily on Bengali cuisine (which can be excused since the author is Bengali). Related to that, I also found that there was so much talk of non-veg dishes and much less of the vegetarian cuisine that’s so ubiquitous in India.
btw, i LOVE the picture.
I love, love, love that picture. You guys rock!
You and NPR sold me on the book, ended up ordering it a couple of days ago
Beautiful lentil flag!