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The dog wags his tail, not for you, but for your bread.
- Portuguese Proverb

Click on the logo to see previous posts in the series.

“War is, ” according to culinary historian Sidney Mintz, “probably the single most powerful instrument of dietary change in human experience.”

In the U.S. and Europe, war has shaped culinary tradition in discernable ways.


In the late 19th century, during the American Civil War, canned food was an important staple, which later became a sort of status symbol as it enabled a few to access out-of-season products, regardless of quality.

Culinary Evolutions

Some Civil War creations like ‘hardtack‘, which were part of the soldiers’ rations, were quickly abandoned after the war ended. The soliders absolutely hated these hard crackers (sometimes called “teeth-dullers” ), which transported well, but had often to be broken with a rifle “butt” or a “blow of the fist” to prepare for eating.

Other recipes like corn bread, jonny cakes and gingerbread gained in popularity.

A Taste of Civil War Food.

Both the World Wars saw the creation of War Cake recipes using raisins and nuts. There’s an American World War I version that uses butter, and was baked to commemorate Fourth of July celebrations.

The version of War Cake as we know it today, though, was born in the 1940s, during World War II. There was widespread rationing across Europe and the U.S.

In 1942, in the U.S., each member of the family was issued ration books, and it was the homemaker’s challenge to pool the stamps and plan the family’s meals within the set limits.

Rationing made white sugar, butter, cheese and eggs very difficult to access. Home canning and the “victory garden” became a way of life. Ration stamps became a type of currency, and lost ration books were a crisis.

Decal from World War II

It was a period of severe scarcity and a thriving black market.

Innovative cooks adapted the War Cake from World War I to create a raisin cake, without eggs, or butter. The boiled raisins in the batter resulted in a moist a sweet cake, and was also called Boiled Raisin Cake.

Some War Cake recipes were even sold for 10 cents to benefit the Red Cross.

Margarine and lard became very popular during these times, as did the boxed Mac and Cheese by Kraft, since cheese itself was rationed.

The situation was much worse in Europe. Check out these newspaper clippings from England in the ’50s, including this one one How To Make Your Fats Go Further.

Recipes from Wartime Europe

Our recipe is inspired by - but deviates significantly from - this recipe from Grandma’s Wartime Kitchen by Joanne Lamb Hayes.

We use a blend of dried fruits and nuts, halve the amount of sugar, and reduce the amount of cinnamon in the recipe. We’ve also eliminated the oil entirely, replacing it with unsweetened applesauce.

This is a yeast-free, vegan cake, and one of our favourites. This time, we soaked the dried fruits in rum for a month. The flavour was richer as a result. Even without pre-soaking, this recipe yields a rich, moist crumb.

Notes:

** We use 8 ounces each of dried fruits and chopped nuts (pecans and/or walnuts). This can be substituted with 16 ounces of dried fruits. In the dried fruit mix, we use 4 ounces of dark raisins, and 4 ounces of assorted dried fruit like cranberries, figs, dates and unsulphured apricots. Candied ginger is a great addition to this cake. 100% raisins is what the traditional recipe uses.

** The original recipe uses 2 cups of brown sugar. We usually use 1 cup of organic sugar plus 1 tablespoon of unsulphured molasses, or 1 cup maple syrup. Half sugar, half jaggery works too.

** This time, we used 1 cup of dark rum to soak the chopped dried fruit for a month. This is optional. If pre-soaking, drain the dried fruits and reserve the liquor. It can be simmered for a few minutes to burn off the alcohol, and drizzled over the hot cake. Or it can be reserved for the chef. :)

** This cake can be given to children, since the alcohol burns off while cooking. It can also be made alcohol-free. Soak the dried fruit in orange juice for a different flavour.

** This recipe can be halved easily. Reduce the baking time to 35 minutes (Check at 30).

FRUIT and NUT “WAR” CAKE (Vegan)

Ingredients:

4 ounces dark raisins
4 ounces mixed dried fruit (see note above)
8 ounces lightly toasted and chopped nuts (we used pecans)
1 cup rum (optional) (see note above)
1 cup packed brown sugar or maple syrup (or more. see note above)
2 cups water
**or water plus orange juice
4 tablespoons unsweetened applesauce (or vegetable oil)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 tsp each ground cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg
3 cups unsifted wholewheat pastry flour or all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier or Cognac (optional)
2 tsps orange zest (or lemon zest)
1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract
1 tsp lemon juice
oil to grease the pan
Powdered sugar to dust

1. If pre-soaking the dried fruits in the rum (see note above), drain and reserve the rum. Put the dried fruits in a pan with water. If they are pre-soaked, use 1 and 2/3rd cups water, if not, add 2 cups water.

2. Add sugar, applesauce/oil, salt, spices, orange zest and Grand Marnier (if using) and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes and turn off the heat.

3. Preheat the oven to 350 F with a rack in the middle. Grease a bundt pan or a loaf pan well.

4. Add lemon juice and vanilla extract to the dry fruit mixture. Let it cool to room temperature.

5. Fold in flour, baking soda and nuts.

6. Spoon into greased pan and bake until a tester inserted in the middle comes out clean. (35 minutes for a bundt pan. Depending on whether the dry fruits were soaked or not, and based on readers’ feedback, in a loaf pan, it can take anything between 45 minutes to an hour. Keep checking with a toothpick every 5 minutes after the 40 minute mark.)

7. Cool for a few minutes and invert over a wire rack.

8. Simmer the reserved rum for a few minutes to burn off the alcohol and drizzle over the cake.

9. Dust with powdered sugar for a festive look.

VERDICT: Moist, dense, delicious. We have made this cake atleast a dozen times, and it has never let us down.

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SPEAK YOUR MIND

46 Comments so far

  1. shilpa on December 12, 2007 10:15 am

    I liked the last photo…looks great.

  2. Gitanjali on December 12, 2007 10:23 am

    Love the recipee, exactly what I’ve been looking for.. I bought a bottle of Old Monk, specially for soaking nuts!! Now with this treasure I am going to create magic! Your blog is very inspiring. Thanks!!

  3. Happy Cook on December 12, 2007 11:18 am

    Delicious war time cake. Cake piece is just bursting withnuts. Yummy
    I would reserve the alcohol for the chef too :D

  4. shivapriya on December 12, 2007 11:21 am

    Is there any alternative for RUM as I don’t get and both chef and the assistant don’t drink ;)

    orange juice. - b.

  5. Kalva on December 12, 2007 11:25 am

    Jai and Bee awesome recipe. Was expecting some fruit cake when you commented on Indiras Fruit adn Nut Cake, but never thought you both giot inspired by WAR cake.. Read you comment…

  6. sandeepa on December 12, 2007 11:52 am

    A very nice read followed by a fabulous cake.

  7. Rajitha on December 12, 2007 12:07 pm

    not only fat-free but vegan to boot..perfect!! :dance:

  8. Namratha on December 12, 2007 12:14 pm

    Very nice looking cake Bee, love the combination of fruits and nuts…

  9. Mansi on December 12, 2007 12:27 pm

    great story ppl! and I’m also planning to make something similar, to nail noth the events, just like you…hehehe:D

    I loved the b/w photo! very dreamy!

  10. vineela on December 12, 2007 12:44 pm

    Hi BEE,
    Delicious cake.thanks for sharing.
    i love the concept of your “click” event.
    vineela

  11. Manasi on December 12, 2007 1:50 pm

    ;;) DELICIOUS!!!
    Ans as usual Stunning pics!!

  12. Meera on December 12, 2007 2:03 pm

    I was going to say utterluy butterly delicious! But wait a minute! No butter? You guys are simply genius!!

  13. Meera on December 12, 2007 2:21 pm

    Typo!!! :no:
    i meant utterly!!

  14. richa on December 12, 2007 3:49 pm

    it is very nice to see a yeastless eggless cake :D

  15. sunita on December 12, 2007 4:12 pm

    I love it…the info and the recipe…thanks. :)

  16. enjay on December 12, 2007 4:32 pm

    This is So sexy. I’m off to make this right instant..cake for dinner!

  17. Cynthia on December 12, 2007 5:34 pm

    I don’t want to make one, I just want to have that piece in the last pic, can I? Pleeeease? ;;)

  18. radhika on December 12, 2007 6:00 pm

    Hi Bee,

    wonderful recepie. first time commenting here. can i use an ordinary rectangle pan instead of a loaf or bundt pan?

    thanks radhika

    sure, you can. if it is a thinner cake, it will bake quicker, so check at 30 minutes. - b.

  19. Suganya on December 12, 2007 7:02 pm

    Just in time for Christmas. And thanks for the detailed instructions.

  20. Kajal on December 12, 2007 7:12 pm

    Perfect for Latha event my dear.;;) Looks delicious!!!
    I am hunger my dear :cry:

  21. enjay on December 12, 2007 8:12 pm

    Alright, here’s the verdict..this is absolutely delicious! I did no pre-soaking, having been seduced into instantaneous action by your pictures. I did replace half cup water with orange juice, halved the nuts, and added another 1/2 tsp of baking soda. The cake took longer to bake (almost 50 minutes) probably due to the increased water ratio. But it is oh-so yummy its unbelievable. The crust is all crispy, almost caramelish, the insides are sweet, moist and (insert personal droolworthy superlatives here). Oh, and the kitchen smells like heaven when you boil all the goodness together. Two thumbs up.

    that reminds me. it does take a tad longer to bake when the fruit is not pre-soaked. glad you liked it. appreciate your feedback. - b.

  22. Laavanya on December 12, 2007 8:55 pm

    It’s amazing how innovative and resourceful the rationing would’ve forced pple to be..
    That cake looks beautiful and I love all the nuts and fruit action going on there…. esp. the candied ginger sounds wonderful. Thanks for this great recipe.

  23. Nags on December 12, 2007 10:03 pm

    i wish unsweetened applesauce was easily available here :( i sigh each time i see ur wonderful healthy recipes thinking how i cant make it here cuz A, B, C is not available here or is way too expensive.

    PS: Are u guys really slim and fit? You should be after a strict diet like this :)

    mashed bananas can be used in lieu of applesauce. prune (dried plum) puree works too. or grated, cooked apples may work. - b.

  24. Nirmala on December 12, 2007 10:21 pm

    Oh is it war time recipe season ? Indira started with her bread and now follows the delicious cake. But both the recipes are apt for the Christmas season too! Lovely looking cake Bee!

  25. sra on December 12, 2007 11:36 pm

    Funny - I just made a batch of masala powder and the aroma reminded me of fruit/Christmas cake. Then I get into your blog and see this - maybe someone will bring over some real cake in the next few minutes! :hmm:

  26. Raaga on December 12, 2007 11:37 pm

    I’ve soaked some raisins and figs to bake my cake… I was asking my mom if I could use oil instead of butter… and she said, “Try”… now I know I can :)

    Send some over please?

  27. dhanggit on December 13, 2007 1:41 am

    hello bee, what could i ask for more.;breathtaking photos and a lovely article to read as usual…what a way to start my day right :bow:

  28. Miri on December 13, 2007 2:40 am

    Yummylicous!!! the dried fruit for my annual Christmas Cake have been soaking for about 2 weeks now and need a week more to go, but this cake almost made me take them out and go with this recipe!

    I have been following War Time Recipes on this blog
    http://thehappysorceress.blogspot.com/ where there are War Time Wednesdays and many of them are amazingly ingenuous!

  29. Shella on December 13, 2007 4:24 am

    Bee & Jai ………..I can almost smell the flavors & the taste tickling my taste buds….do I say any more. You both, as usual ROCK!!

  30. Siri on December 13, 2007 6:17 am

    :D Ooohoooooooo thats one amazing looking cake.. :love: pass it on to me .. ;) orelse I will grab and runnn!.. :devil:

    ~ Siri :horn:

  31. seena on December 13, 2007 9:35 am

    Lovely cake. The whole post was good to read.
    Liked your new header.Looks nice. :)

  32. sagari on December 13, 2007 8:30 pm

    bee cake looks awesome

  33. Linda on December 13, 2007 9:11 pm

    That dried-fruit-infused rum must be more like a liqueur after steeping for a month. I think I want a sip and I also think I need to buy a bundt pan :)

  34. Shilpa (f&r) on December 14, 2007 2:10 am

    Hey, what an innovative way to substitute the butter! like the thought of the applesauce, and can imagine varying it with other fruit purees!

  35. Miri on December 14, 2007 2:42 am

    Is it just me or is there something wrong with food blog desam? i havent been able to go to that site for 3 days now…

  36. kribha on December 14, 2007 8:15 am

    Looks so good as usual. Few questions for you. I don’t have a bundt pan. Can I do it in a loaf pan or muffin tray? Is so, does the baking time vary. Thanks in advance.

    loaf pan takes about 45 minutes. in a muffin tray, check it at 18 minutes. - bee

  37. Anita on December 14, 2007 8:37 am

    I tried this. And it turnd out beautiful. I used 2 cups whole wheat flour and 1 cup oats. And upped the baking soda to 1.5t. I soaked the dry fruits in orange liqueur for half a day. So cut down on the orange zest but I think I would use the 2t zest as called for in the recipe.
    The b/w pic of the cake in the bundt pan spurred me to make this. When we were kids we wanted to have cakes with crusts on all sides so my mother improvised and she started placing a tall glass in her round cake pan before pouring in the batter. And we have even had quite a few brithday cakes baked thus!
    Thank you for this wonderful recipe.

    appreciate your feedback. oats is a great idea. we’ll use it the next time we prepare this. - bee

  38. manju on December 14, 2007 3:53 pm

    Incredible looking cake! Now I just need a time machine to take me back a month so I can use those fruits tonight!

  39. Vi on December 17, 2007 7:30 pm

    You can use plain fat free yogurt in place of fat in almost
    any recipe. Anywhere you sub the applesauce you can use yogurt

  40. Johanna on December 17, 2007 7:41 pm

    fascinating post and interesting recipe - when I read about rationing it makes me feel very grateful (and even indulgent) for our abundance of good food

  41. AJ on December 17, 2007 11:44 pm

    I am commenting for the first time here.You have a lovely site. I tried this cake and it blew me away! I am so pleased with this that I have named it my guilt free X’mas cake! Thanks a whole ton.

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  45. Sapna on January 11, 2008 2:14 pm

    Hello B & J,

    I made this cake for the New Year. The taste blew us away. Thanks a lot for the recipe. Its a keeper. Now I am aspiring to make either Chocolate Rum Cake or the Tia Maria cake for my anniversary. Do you have any suggestions for making the Tia Maria cake eggless?

    thanks for your feedback. you can try 1/4 cup silken tofu per egg. don’t know if it will work to make the cake fluffy, ‘cos the eggs need to be beaten until they double in volume. maybe increase the baking powder? but the choc rum works really well if you are intent on an eggless cake. if you go with the tia maria, use whole eggs if you don’t mind the yolk. it yields a moister cake.

    - b.

  46. guos on May 8, 2008 8:26 am

    nice i needed info fr a progect bout war food thanks!

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