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Time stands still
September 11, 2007 | 23 Comments
in this postcard from south India.
Our Postcards Series is about extending a handshake across cyberspace. Read about it here.
Please accord a warm welcome to our guest contributors. They will try to respond to comments and questions.
Anjali of Anna Parabrahma is one of our favourite bloggers. Her blog showcases Koli cuisine and culture. The Kolis are the original inhabitants of India’s west coast, and her work in documenting their unique heritage is of tremendous value. Professionally, she is an environmental engineer who now specialises in information technology, working out of India’s IT hub, Bangalore. In this postcard, she brings us some exquisite architecture and sculpture in this journey through Karnataka‘s Jain and Hindu shrines dating between the eighth and 12th centuries.
It’s been 2 years in Bangalore the IT capital of India. When I moved here I planned to travel all over Karnataka. This state has a rich heritage. Shravanbelagola, Belur and Halebid are part of one such travel circuit that has stood the test of time.
On June 16, 2006, we joined the day tour conducted by the Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation. The weather was pleasant due to the showers on the previous night. As soon as one is outside Bangalore the greenery starts soothing you. The windows of the Volvo allow an uninterrupted view of the tiny villages passing by. There are orchards of swaying coconut and bettlenut palms dominating the topography. The roads are good in this part so the ride is smooth. We stopped for 30 mins at a non-descript hotel for breakfast our order Masala Dosa a complete let down. Yet there is one combo breakfast plate that is a hit all over Karnataka the Chow Chow Bhat.
It takes 1.5 hrs to reach the pilgrim center of Shravanbelagola from Bangalore. Our guide announces that we should leave our footwear in the bus and proceed to climb the Chandragiri hill. It is home to the gigantic statue of Bahubali. The welcome door opens inwards to a steep hill with 654 steps leading to the shrine. My Dad at 67 yrs climbed in 20 mins flat as I slugged up. At about 300 steps there is a building that now is considered as a temple called Basti. This was built by The Great Chandragupta Maurya when he came here with his guru in search of peace of mind towards the end of his life.
The welcome gate was made with bamboo reminiscent of a festival gone by.
Basti built with unique style of supports. Was this to give strength to it from the fierce winds?
After a few hundred steps we reach the dharamshalas or resting places and my Dad after succeeding in his target of reaching the main shrine in a single run suddenly remembered me and came in search of me only to find me panting as I pulled my self up the hill slowly.
Together we entered an enclosure and I was curious to see Bahubali but there were no signs seen. As I entered the courtyard I saw these huge feet on which the priest was performing a pooja ritual.
It dawned on me that we had reached the shrine of Bahubali who later was named Gomateshwar. Slowly I looked up at the statue and tried to meet his gaze. It makes one feel like a pygmy. This is a 55 ft monolithic statue carved on the sides of the hill. It just dominates ones senses with the size and the starkness.
The courtyard is enclosed by a covered path for Pradakshina (holy circumventing). There are several statues of the other thirthankars in this area. The poor lighting restricts any detailed observation one would like to make.
The statue of Bahubali (dated 978 to 993 A.D.). This statue, 18 metres high, is the tallest monolithic statue in the world, and representes the Jain deity Gomateshwar.
We then start descending the hill and taking in the beauty of the surrounding landscapes.
It was 11.30 am and the bus then proceeded towards the village of Belur. We were informed that lunch was at the Govt. run Mayura Velapuri Hotel. It is a budget hotel and though the village gets a lot of tourists, it is really small so we decide to play safe and order a standard South Indian thali. It consisted of rice, Chakota Huli, tomato rasam, chana masala, curd, papad, pickle and even 2 chapathis. Yes now chapathi has become a part of South Indian thalis at least in restaurants.
Post lunch within 15 min. we reached the Chennakeshava Temple. As I entered the complex what struck me is the pentagonal structure of the temple. The pentagon no matter which religion on this earth has some code that man tries to decipher once in a while. We had left our footwear in the bus and walking on the cool cobbled courtyard is a something I was enjoying. The temple unlike other Hindu temples does not have a gopur or dome on the top. Was is it ever there I wonder?
The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the preserver of this earth as per Hindu mythology. It is called the Chennakeshava Temple as it houses the Handsome Keshava/ Vishnu. The temple is built as per the Hindu Vastu Shastra (architecture) with a Garbh Gruh or the sanct sanctorium surrounded by the Antrala or space, Sabha Mandap or the gathering hall. This temple construction was started by the Hoyshalas in 12th century and took 103 years to complete. The temple has had services conducted here for the last 800 plus years.
The Hoyshala King Vishuvardhan’s wife, Shantala Devi was a beautiful dancer and she worshipped the Lord Chennakeshava through her passion for dance hence the presence of a low level circular podium is found in the hall in front of the diety. The hall is lined with beautiful pillars each one having a different design no two pillars are the same. There is a beautiful ceiling put together with stone panels. Figurines of Shantala Devi in different poses are used as brackets to support the ceiling.
The carvings are intricately done on slate and bring out the different moods of the subject. The filigree work on stone is like you will see no where else.
The ones that touched my heart were Shantala Devi drying her wet hair and droplets of water collected at the ends of her long hair.
The queen talks to the unusual looking bird. It has a head of a parrot and the torso and tail like a peacock. Was this her messenger of love?
The Mohini pillar is a tribute to the female form of Vishnu. Exquisitely carved, but has been subject to vandalism.
The carvings are impressive and the art fluid. The temple walls have perforated decorative windows which give a dreamy aura to the temple as the diffused sunrays stream through them. The illumination inside is very poor and taking pictures is a big challenge but I was camera happy at Halebid read on why.
Just 16 km away from Belur is a similar temple built at Halebid. The Halebid temple is dedicated to Shiva and is called Hoyshaleshwar as it is the family deity of the Hoyshalas. I found it amusing that King Vishnuvardhan and Shantala Devi had separate shrines in the same temple of the same Lord Shiva or did they practice royal privacy during worship, I wondered.
The Roopagarvita or the lady with the mirror emotes pride about her beauty.
The detail work on the numerous little coves on the temple walls amazingly replicates the wood roof paneling of that era to the minutest details showing nuts and bolts. The lady playing the drum shows a depression of the skin covering the drum in the center depicting wearing due to excessive use. The intricately carved walls also provide ventilation.
Lady chatting with the parrot as her maid looks on. These sculptures follow a rule the royals are depicted as a large statue whereas the maids and other characters with less importance are shown as small and at the feet of the main subject.
The foundation of the temple are symbols of the Hoyshala empire – the lowest panel of elephants represents strength, above it the panel of lions for power and the topmost panel of horses showcases speed.
Not only the Gods but even their vehicles get beautiful shelters here. Spot the Nandi (bull). Two such structures are situated opposite the Hoyshaleshwar temple.
Indra riding Airavat his vehicle and Chamunda Devi destroying the devil Mahishasur is seen here.
The Ganapati with his trunk on the right side symbolizes extreme austerities to be maintained.
The Hoyashalas were not able to complete this temple and it took 109 years to build it. It was left half done and so pillars tell tales of abandonment. This village was in ruins after the downfall of the Hoyshala therefore it gets its current name of Halebid meaning village of ruins.
I have refrained from adding more pictures here. I was at these temples for one hour each and did not do justice. One would require days to study every nook and corner of each temple separately. Such places time and again take me back in time and I swell with pride of our heritage and culture.
India welcomes all those who come here with an open mind. There is lots to explore and sometimes quite overwhelming to the senses. Do visit.
Halebidu: The Splendour of Hoysala Sculpture
Filed Under: Bahubali, Belur, Halebidu, Hindu, Hoysala, Jain, Karnataka, lifestyle, MUSINGS, Postcards, Shravanabelagola, south-India, TRAVEL
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23 Comments
Beautifull collection of pictures! just too good to look at!
Lovely post. Anjali, I loved the phrase ‘slugged up’. I too slugged up v slowly the first time, the next time I visited I went up in 20 minutes. I’ve seen this circuit and your pictures brought back memories, your photos reminded me of all that I’d seen – the Santala Devi carvings and the Roopa Garvita!
Keep up this tradition, Bee & Jai!
Lovely postcard! Good information and great pictures!
Lovely pics.. reminded me of all my trips to the Hassan district
Thanks guys.
Lovely post, Anjali! Great pictures too! Thanks Bee and Jai, for this great feature.
my husband spending most of his life in mysore and many years in bangalore looooooves chow-chow bath… whenever I make upma OR kada(halwa)… he always misses the other…
lovely temple pics…
I have fond memories of our trips to discover these gems built by the Hoysalas – definitely one of the best road trips we have ever had.
Reg the two shrines, while I am not an expert to point out the exact reason, I can share my limited knowledge. Depending on number of shrines or vimanas, Hoysala temples can be called – ekakuta (1), dwikuta (2) or trikuta (3). Building two shrines in facing each other became an architectural feature of that era.
I believe Shantala Devi just commissioned another shrine to be built (my memory tells me that the second shrine is older than the first) – and did not necesarily intend this as a separate place of workship for her. I guess this is typically how most temples grow – different kings and queens commission various shrines.
Anjali, did you guys not stop at Somanathapura? The image of the Chennakesava temple there is burned in my memory – its breathtaking. I am sure you’ll love the ornamentation at this temple – its very intricate.
Lovely post, beautiful photos. I’d love to do this tour at some point. I looked up the KSTDC site but it doesnt mention from which place the tour starts. Bangalore, hopefully, since I’ll be going there? Any info would be welcome!
lovely pics!
I loved the photo of Himalaya Highway No.# the most, beautiful card series and photo collection!
Beautiful pics.
Reminded me the time when we went to Bellur years and years ago.
YAY!! My home. My maternal grandparents coffee plantation is 12 miles away from Belur and they always had another house in Belur for my Uncles and aunts to go to school and college in Belur.
Every Summer, I would go to estate as we call it with mom and brother and then stay in Belur for a while.We played in that Channakeshava Temple half the day in the Sun.
The golden Stambha you see infront of the main Garbha Gudi is standing on 4 points and you can slide in a cloth from one end and pull it in the other side!!
I have climbed those Shravana Belagola steps many times,I don’t think I can do it now!:D
Thanks to Anjali and you guys too, made my day!:))
Amazing pictures. A virtual trip for sure.
What an informative, stunning visual treat this postcard is. Thanks Anjali, Bee & Jai.
Wonderful pictures!
Such a divine post guys! I am nostalgic beyond words. Visited all these places a couple of times in my younger days. Nothing as splendid as the beautiful architecture and temples of India! Thanks to Anjali and u guys for this very lovely post!
Lovely pictures Anjali. So very rich and beautiful and the details have come out so well
Thanks J & B
Hey B & J thank you for hosting! Man what an introduction :embarrass. I loved the old world charm you have created for the pictures they look better now.
lakshmi :You have shared some interesting info. You are right about how the shrines get their names. The guide told us that these two shrines were separately built for the king and the queen and are infact named after them. Somanathapura was not included in this trip. Missed it. But will do it another time. Thanks Lakshmi.
Shammi the info on KSTDC site is not updated. The fares are different for a regular bus and volvo. Yes all tours start from Badami House opp. Bangalore Municipal Corporation. KSTDC has the best deals for day tours but the ones with overnight stays aren’t good. The stays are in the govt. run budget hotels besides most of the time these are in secluded areas which means you cannot choose eating places and evenings have to be spent in the hotel itself. We generally like to check out the town we visit in the evenings and sample local flavors. Only few of these Mayura grp hotels are good for a stay like the one near Hampi. However for week long holidays or more we hire a car and go for a roadtrip which gives us a lot of flexibility in what we want see, eat and where we want to stay. All women will agree we are finicky about the stay. Such trips cost almost 5 times more.
Asha I knew you would be happy with this one. The stambh you are talking about is not visible in this picture it is daigonally positioned.This golden stambh is the Garud stambh right opp the entrance.
Thank you all for the comments.
Anjali – thank you very much for the info. I think I would prefer the day-trips or else hire a car for a week – and so would my husband. I hope to be able to visit these gorgeous places in December, with any luck. Many thanks once again.
I have been to Belur, and Halebedu number of times. I never get tired of seeing the temples and the figures. How artistic were the people in those days. With just chisle and hammers they have created such beautiful figures.I Love old temples.
Very good pitcures.
Thank-You.
Lovely postcard! great pictures!
Awesome !!! I am a great fan of Queen Shantala and her love dance …These photos are really fantabulous …I am hoping to visit these places soon and be able spend loads of time just staring at the wonderful pieces of art . :bow:
Awesome !!! I am a great fan of Queen Shantala and her love for dance …These photos are really fantabulous …I am hoping to visit these places soon and be able spend loads of time just staring at the wonderful pieces of art . :bow: