Irasshaimase!

September 25, 2007 | 37 Comments

postcardjapan.jpgfrom Tsuruoka, Japan.

Our Postcards Series is about extending a handshake across cyberspace. Read about it here.

Please accord a warm welcome to our guest contributors. They will try to respond to comments and questions.


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Tokyo station. Pic: Morguefile.com

Today’s postcard is from Vidya of Foodie Confidential and Lost in Webspace. Her “classified ramblings” are trenchant and witty. Do check out her blogs if you haven’t already. She tells us what life is like for an Indian vegetarian family in rural Japan. To get a real idea of how one gets by without being able to read or speak Japanese, check out her The phone rings … a true story and Reading Katakana. :)

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300 year-old Japanese garden at Mt Haguro

Irasshaimase! A warm welcome to rural Japan.

I said to myself, after reading the postcard series, that my neck of the woods could be featured here. And Bee and Jai were rather enthusiastic when I mailed them about it.

I spent the bulk of my life in Mysore. After getting married, I moved to that oh-so-convenient place, Singapore. After five years there, my husband was offered a job in Tsuruoka. This place is simply beautiful. But rather isolated. This is an experience of ‘the REAL Japan’. Exquisitely courteous people, glorious blossoms in spring, verdant valleys in summer, blazing colours in fall and last but not the least, snow measured in feet over winter. For someone who lived all my life in warm tropical climes, winter was something I really looked forward to. Since I’d had a baby at the onset of the season, I was more or less house bound over the winter. And I spent my time watching it snow, and building snowmen on the window ledge of my room.

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The gorge at Asahi. Tsuruoka’s bungee jumping spot

Did I mention that we are the only Indians here, and probably the only vegatarians?? I love the look on people’s faces when I tell them that we don’t eat fish or meat. Entertaining here is a lark. First I explain what is what, what is eaten with what, and love the look on my guests’ faces when they realise that vegetarian food is not just ghaas-poos. And when they go ‘oishii (delicious)’, slaving away over a hot stove, in that glorified closet I call a kitchen, it all seems worth it.

We’re all learning the language, and our little one is learning fastest, as she goes to a local kindergarten. My daughter now talks back in Japanese because she knows I have no clue what she’s saying.

The language still does present some challenges. We can decipher two of the three scripts they use. In effect, we have no clue when we encounter anything written in Japanese. Instructions on cartons, maps, traffic signs, letters, notices… unfortunately, the bills are all in regular numeral systems, and that’s a place where we can’t say ‘wakarimasen (I don’t understand)’.

I’m loving it here, but have to admit that I’d probably not complain if I never had to eat another sushi for the rest of my life.

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Cherry Blossoms (Sakura)

My neck of the woods, Tsuruoka, is one of two major cities in the Shonai valley, located in the northern part of the Yamagata Prefecture, in the Northern part of the island of Honshu, Japan. The first time I ever heard of the place, and couldn’t find it on a regular atlas, I asked my better(?) half if this was some sort of a joke. After a lot of R & D, we packed up from Singapore, and went straight to Tsuruoka.

Rural Japan is a whole new experience. You can count English speakers on your hands and toes. And textbook Japanese takes a beating with the local dialect, that I still haven’t got a grip on after a year and a half. This far north, summer is short, and we spend over three quarters of a year in warm clothes.

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Rice fields in the Shonai valley

The Shonai valley is pretty as a picture, and is a major rice producing area. There’s only one crop in a year. Throughout the year, there’s abundant supply of fresh fruit, locally grown.

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We’ve spent wonderful days in orchards picking cherries and grapes, and eating them straight off the tree. Vegetables though, are another story. I’ve forgotten what half the familiar vegetables I grew up with taste like.

What’s any mention of Japan worth without talk of ‘Hanami’? Hana means flower, and mi(ru) means to see. Hanami is the famous cherry-blossom viewing season in Japan. It might sound like a lot of fuss about flowers, but having lived for over a year, I can really appreciate it. After a bleak dreary winter, the cherry trees bloom with these beautiful flowers for about a week.

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Spring blooms in Tsuruoka park

Then they all fall off, and the trees start to sprout leaves. Every town has its little park filled with these cherry trees. They’re a joy to behold in any season.

Glorious sakura in spring, a lovely shady green in summer, shades of orange in autumn, and in winter, their dark boughs laden in snow, they turn the park into a winter fairyland.

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Tsuruoka park, one view for each season of the year. Clockwise from top left: Fall colours, sakura, summer, peak winter.

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Tulip fields of Ikoi-no-Mura

There are some lovely tulip fields, and apricot (Ume) trees nearby. One interesting thing here is skiing.

Mt. Gassan in early July

Can you believe, the mountains are so high, skiing season ends in the middle of July.

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The beach at Yura

So on a hot day in July it’s a dilemma choosing between the slopes and the beach.

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And of course the hot springs. Take a look at these foot-onsens. The water’s about 45 degrees C or so even in the middle of winter. Perfect for a pedicure, but that would be a breach of etiquette!!

(Unless otherwise indicated, all pictures belong to Vidya of Foodie Confidential and have been reproduced with her permission.)

Japanese Cuisine here and here.
The Japanese Garden
Japenese Gardens: a historical overview.
Japanese architecture

Picture: Morguefile.com

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37 Comments

  1. Jyothi says:

    Wow! really beautiful pics. Just love the grapes photo. Amazing photos. Thanks for sharing. :yes: :dance: :bow: :love:

  2. Linda says:

    Such a beautiful place; thanks to you all for the lovely photos.

    I do believe that the title of this post is a phrase often spoken as a tradtional welcome/greeting to a sushi bar. Some Indian/Japanese fusion sushi could be fun, yes? :)

  3. sreelu says:

    Vidya absolutely beautiful, cannot imagine being the only Indian/vegetarian around,but I guess there lies the unqiuesness. Snow is July is amazing.beautiful pics

  4. Lovely postcard!
    Vidya: I can’t help but wonder – what is the main occupation of people living in rural Japan? In seeing the rice fields, I would think agriculture, but thought I’d ask. It must be something to be pronounced outliers like that, but it sure does sound exciting! Thank you for bringing this to us!

    J & B, your blog is awesome!

  5. Srivalli says:

    wow…thats a beautiful postcard vidhya…thanks for sharing…and thanks b&j for your series…its wonderful!

  6. Nags says:

    lovely pics, esp the cherry blossoms :)

  7. pelicano says:

    This is wonderful to see Vidya. At first I was astounded by the photo of the garden at Mt. Haguro, but the four-season photo of Tsuruoka Park is just as beautiful, as I love cherry-blossoms and the symbolism of mujo. Hopefully one day I will be able to visit Japan, but this postcard was certainly a nice trip on its own. Thank you!

  8. Keerthi says:

    That’s a virtual tour of Japan to ppl like me..Lovely write up Vidya..

  9. Rachna says:

    Hey Konichiwa…Vidya…. lovely lovely postcard…. and love the writeup and the pics… i worked three years with a japanese colleague and i always loved to take my veggie food for him… and he wud be so surprised that its veggie… he wud also ask me what its made of and then wonder and shake his head…. once he told me that jalebi tasted like sweet fish…!!! thanks jay and bee for this wonderful series… can i send u another one :) (from zimbabwe or south africa or something)

  10. sra says:

    Lovely post, Vidya, love the green running through the post! Thanks B, J!

  11. viji says:

    Lovely pictures Bee. Viji

  12. Vidya says:

    Thanks Bee and Jai.. And thank all you lovely people for your comments :)

    Linda: Fusion sushi?? right now no sushi sounds awesome!

    Sreelu: One of the plus points of this place, lots of snow.. one of the minus points, lots of snow :) Being a vegetarian can be quite challenging anywhere in Japan, but is worse in these small towns.

    Roopa: A lot of people here are retirees. People work in the bigger cities, but like to come the smaller places like this once they retire. According a friend here, 3% of the total area of the city is being used for commercial and residential purposes, 35% for agriculture, and the the rest is natural forest.

    Raaga: Do itashimashite

    Pelicano: The traditional Japanese gardens are designed such that they’re a visual feast all seasons of the year. You should visit Japan sometime, and try to visit a laidback place like this. It’s nothing at all like Tokyo or Osaka.

  13. richa says:

    the garden @ Mt Haguro is amazing! my dad used to visit tokyo, so had seen pics from there, but looks like rural Japan is a totally diff pic :D

  14. Gini says:

    Great pictures and great write up. It was lovely reading abt Japan and your life there. Japanese gardens have such a calming effect. Cherry blossoms are spectacular. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences and lovely pics.

  15. Pooja says:

    Lovely post Vidya..I m stil staring at the beautiful pictures. loved them.

  16. Asha says:

    That is rich and colorful post and pics. Enjoyed every bit of it. Thanks Vidya and you too. So great to see a culture we are not very familiar with.Mysore girl in Japan!! Who would’ve thunk it?!:D

  17. shivapriya says:

    wonderful write-up vidya and beautiful pictures. One of my dear friend was in Tokyo for 5 yrs, she had similar experiences… I advantage was she is non-vegetarian. so it was lil easy for her. She taught me few Japanese words.

  18. Ashwini says:

    Vidya thanks for sharing a slice of your life with us. My father spent about 6 months in Japan (Osaka) when he was a bachelor and I have grown up looking at black and white photos of lush parks, tea ceremonies and Japanese gardens. The place holds such mystery for me and after reading about your experience and the photos (to die for!!) I really really want to visit the place. America characterizes Japan only through its karaoke and manga comics… but the land is so rich and serene.
    Btw a deep bow to you for seeing the humor in what must surely be a trying situation sometimes.

  19. Manisha says:

    Must say that this is one of the best postcards in your series, B&J!

    Vidya, what is it like in the workplace? Doesn’t your husband need to be fluent in Japanese, both spoken as well as written?

  20. sandeepa says:

    Those are wonderful pics Vidya. Truly lovely. It must be quiet an experience staying in “rural” Japan

  21. musy says:

    What a refreshing trip to rural Japan! Words won’t be enough to decribe the beauty of these pictures, Vidya! Though as you said, it must be quite dificult to be a vegetarian. Lovely write up too! Thanks for sharing this with us. and thanks Bee and Jai, for this beautiful series.

  22. Laavanya says:

    Vidya, I love the way you write. Such a beautiful, beautiful place you live in. Excellent potos.

  23. shammi says:

    Domo arigato for the post! :)

  24. sharmi says:

    :cool: real cool pics and awesome write up

  25. Nabeela says:

    My husband recently went to Japan on a business trip..and he came back all changed. Now he insists on sushi every week! :)

  26. Cynthia says:

    Simply breath-taking. I’m off to Vidya’s site. See yah! Oh yeah, thanks for bringing this fantastic postcard to us. :yes:

  27. Anonymous says:

    very witty yet informative. Hey you should write a book!
    :yes:

  28. Arun says:

    I agree.. she SHOULD write a book :) (Am the other half btw!)
    Now if only I could convince her!

  29. Vidya says:

    Bee and Jai, wow… I never thought I’d get such a overwhelming response to this piece. Thanks a lot :D Let me see if I can prompt another fellow blogger to send you a postcard from Tokyo. You’ll love her take on things.

    Thank you all for your comments!

    Gini, Pooja, Sandeepa, musy, Laavanya, Shammi, Sharmi, Anonymous, thanks a lot

    Richa: There’s a WORLD of difference between Tokyo and these rural places. Here 5 cars at a traffic light is heavy traffic.

    Asha: Mysore girl still cant thunk shes actually here :laugh:

    Shivapriya: being carnivore is still not easy. I know a teacher here who says she’s vegan because she refuses to eat raw fish.

    Ashwini: it’s easier to laugh at some things life throws your way. like I mentioned, there’s no resemblence between the usual perception of Japan (overcrowding, space issues) and a place like this. after a trip to Tokyo, it really fely like a slice of heaven

    Manisha: Arun, fortunately, does more research, and the rare course that he teaches, he does so in English..

    nabeela: as long as you like sushi, that’s great :D I’ve had a sushi overdose.. so please excuse any bias there *lol*

    Arun: Create time for me :love:

  30. bee says:

    dear vidya, we really enjoyed the glimpse of japan you gave us. you write beautifully. thank you.

  31. Nupur says:

    What a lovely post, Vidya! For a few minutes, I was transported to this magical place and imagining what life would be like…thank you for a peek into your world.

  32. Nayana says:

    Hi Vidya,

    Thanks for sending me this link to check.
    A wonderful treat for the eyes. And reading is a pleasure too. I think you should write a book on your Japanese experience.

    Say hi to Arun from me and blessings to the kids.

  33. Anjali says:

    Japan for me is a place full of mystery and after reading this post it has further enhanced that notion. Vidya its pure exotica. You guys are lucky. Thanks for sharing.

  34. grihini says:

    Wooww…japan’s so b’ful. thanks for sharing this piece

  35. Anonymous says:

    this is the n th itme i am rading ur post
    patti would have loved reading it
    god bless
    amma

  36. manju says:

    Stunning photos and insightful writing — many thanks for a a gaijin view of this rural area! The 4-seasons series was truly lovely.



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