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An African safari
August 21, 2007 | 43 Comments
in today’s postcard.
Our Postcards Series is about extending a handshake across cyberspace. Read about it here.
Please accord a warm welcome to our guest contributors. They will try to respond to comments and questions.
Foodie and wanderer at heart, Rachna of Soul Food exemplifies the global citizen. Punjabi by ethnicity (sans a doubt 
), with a Keralite partner and southern African domicile, Rachna speaks many languages.
She soaks in every culture she comes in contact with, while imbuing it with a part of herself. Rachna lives in Botswana with her husband and son. In this postcard, she gives us glimpses of the beautiful country she has called home for most of her life.
Dumela everyone! Yes that’s actually a form of greeting in the local language (Setswana) here in Botswana. Now you finally know what it means. When I saw the Postcards Series at Jugalbandi, I knew I had to write one to Jai and Bee to mark 20 years of my stay in this beautiful country.
Map from here.
The Okavango River is the fourth longest river system in southern Africa and originates in Angola. After skipping along in Angola and going along the Namibian Angolan border, she enters Botswana. Soon after entering Botswana and approaching the Kalahari Desert, she decides she has reached her sea and spreads her waters for miles and miles. And this is what is called the Okavango Delta, the world’s largest inland delta. It’s the most beautiful thing to see in Botswana. The champagne coloured water transforms the parched desert into a beautiful swamp of flora and fauna. The dense reed beds, papyrus grooves and clear waterways are arguably the largest concentration of species of wildlife and birds in one location.
The Okavango Delta is unique as it is said to be the largest inland delta in the world, instead of flowing into the sea, the annual flood of fresh water flows inland, spreading over 15 000km² of the Kalahari sand in a maze of lagoons and channels. The countless islands that emerge from its waterways give rise to several diverse ecosystems which in turn, are home to vast numbers of game and a myriad birds. The crystal clear waters support many kinds of fish and it is a birder’s paradise. The heart of the delta is accessed only by air and as an exclusive destination, it remains relatively unpopulated and wild.
Using the mokoro is the best way to see the delta. (What a mokoro looks like here and here)
Growing up here, I’ve gone on countless delta and game park holidays within the country and next-door South Africa. I can never forget sitting in our mokoro (thin tree trunk carved traditional boat) and going from lagoon to lagoon and sometimes through the long grass reeds.
That had an amazing thrill to it, because we never knew what we might face in the next bit of waters. You could end up near water buffaloes or in the middle of a flock of Slaty Egrets or confront a huge elephant bathing. I remember once the big beast decided to charge at us in the waters, when we approached the loner elephant for a good photograph. Phew that was life and death at that time. Later we landed on a ‘safe’ island and had poori aalo from our picnic basket!!
Botswana and southern Africa has amazing wildlife, the best that Africa can offer. Some moments are unforgettable. We’ve seen newborn Wildebeest (with their umbilical cords still hanging), and they could hardly walk. We’ve seen herds of zebras in a huge rainstorm and it was so difficult to capture on camera. And can I forget this huge giraffe standing right on the side of the road nibbling on the top most leaf of the tree? Then there is the majestic rhino sleeping under a bush or an injured buffalo nursing its wounded horn under a tree. And the funny hippos popping their heads up from under the water and sinking back in. Of course I couldn’t miss out on a sight of the lions. I was shaking while taking some shots in my well protected car, of course the shot was still shaky!!! Here are some pictures.
Wildbeest are usually found in herds, here we found lots of day old calves with their mothers at Madikwe Game Reserve. In early January when the calves are born the mothers have to be very protective of the young, as lurking lionesses are looking for such weakness in a herd.
When we approached this rhino, our game rancher switched off the van engine, and told us not to make noise. Also he told us not to use flash in our cameras. The rule is that if you don’t disturb the rhinos, it will stay calm and won’t do anything. Rhinos can weigh up to 3 tonnes and are usually gentle creatures, but if you’ve pissed them off enough, it’ll make sure it picks up your car with its horn and topples it to finish you off for sure, he told us! A rhino is also the jungle’s very own fireman; when they spot a small fire, they run to it and stamp it out using their feet
Arno at Pilanesburg National Park: the coolest game rancher we have ever come across – picks up a tortoise with a shell that was burnt in the previous year’s veld fire – hats off to his eye for detail.
The north east corner of the country has the lush delta and the extreme north is green where the Moremi and Chobe National parks are. The rest of the country is a semi-desert with a fertile strip towards the south-east of the country. This is where the most number of towns and cities are, with Gaborone as the capital in the south. The semi-desert area is called the Kalahari Desert (or Kgalagadi, which is its Setswana name) which stretches westwards into Namibia and South Africa, covering 84% of the country. Pula is the local currency and also means ‘rain’ in Setswana. The weather here is very dry throughout the year and rain becomes a much needed and scarce commodity.
The present day locals of this country belong to various small tribes that migrated many centuries ago and form part of the Bantu tribes that encompass most southern African tribes. However, the earliest modern inhabitants of southern Africa are the Bushmen (San) and the Hottentot (Khoe) people. They have lived an almost unchanged lifestyle in the country since the Middle Stone Age.
The San (or Bushmen) were the original inhabitants of South Africa, appearing there about 30 000 years ago, but were displaced westward from the lush mountains in the east toward the dryer Kalahari desert by the more powerful Zulu and Xhosa tribes who came from the north. Only a few scattered bands remain. Together with the Khoikhoi they form the Khoisan group.
If we travel to the southern remote parts of Botswana, we see them living in comfort and see their adaptation to the harsh desert conditions. Their physical characteristics are having light, almost coppery skin colour, almond-shaped eyes, and high cheekbones. Their language is mostly composed of different types of clicks and distinct from the other tribes. The best way to see them is to see the movie The Gods Must Be Crazy written and directed by Jamie Uys which is shot mostly in Botswana is an amusing story and a cute depiction of their lifestyle and ideologies.
Most of urban Africa is the same with tarred roads and modern buildings; it’s the rural areas that really show each area’s distinct culture and true landscape. I travelled to the remote desert village of Letlhakeng recently (for work and to take pictures!) through the village of Molepolole.
Africans have superb handicraftsman skills. They use these skills everywhere in their day to day lives, building their huts and things such as the log fence shown above. Many have roadside stalls near touristy areas, as most make a living from it.
Most of the food that is locally available here is meat based, as beef is the second largest export of the country after diamonds. The staple that is eaten with the meat is usually cornmeal and sorghum-based dumplings. These dumplings are called ‘Paleje’ in Setswana and I sometimes make it with any normal curry/sabzi at home. Paleje which is made from cornmeal can be compared to our Upma (which is made from semolina). One of my favorite local snacks that I remember having while walking to school (almost everyday) is the ‘magunya’, it’s a local doughnut that’s soft, spongy and yummy. (Picture HERE) Even now, I nip out to the street stalls outside our office building for a warm indulgence at tea time. I have made it several times at home and hope to post the recipe soon on my blog.
A unique delicacy, which I just have to mention, eaten here is the mopane worms which are found on the indigenous mophane trees of southern Africa. Yes, it a delicacy here and is becoming a multi-dollar business as they are now being farmed in the areas that they are naturally found, and being exported. Also the entomology department at the University of Botswana is researching on these crawlies’ amazing capability to produce natural silk.
I remember when they are in season, around early summer; our whole yard would be full of these crawlies. The Batswana (local people) also dry them in the sun and preserve them to eat them throughout the year. They are said to be cooked boiled or fried and are a source of protein for the locals. For those who love to experiment, HERE is a recipe, send me a mail and I’ll ship you a packet 
Unfortunately, I wouldn’t be able to give you a verdict on it, being a vegetarian and not knowing the taste!! I want to move onto another indigenous fruit of southern Africa that I HAVE tasted, the yummy and fleshy marula. (Pic HERE)
“Well known as the fruit that ‘drives elephants mad’ when dropped to the ground and lightly fermented, marula is a much-loved tree in the veld in Africa. It was a dietary mainstay in South Africa, Botswana and Namibia throughout ancient times.”
Pic and info from: Marula.org.za
When this fruit ripens it falls from the tree and people collect large quantities of this ripe fruit. The reason why the previous excerpt talks about this fruit driving elephants mad is that, there is a myth here (still to be proven) that since this fruit has a natural tendency to ferment after it has fallen from the tree, when the elephants consume it (which they love to do), it makes them drunk and they go around stomping things as if mad. It’s true that the natural fermenting process starts in some ripe ones that haven’t even fallen from the tree yet. Sometimes one can’t even go near a tree full of ripe fruit, because it stinks so much. :no:
Commonly the marulas are used for making jam and alcohol by all tribes and locals living alongside these trees. The jam is made in the usual traditional way, while beer or wine is produced by soaking fruit in water in an airtight container for a couple of days, then squeezing out the juice of the softened fruits, and closing the pot for a further few days. The sour drink is said to give a good alcohol kick! It takes about 200 fruits to make a single litre of alcohol. Considering this, I hardly think that the elephants get a high from the fruit! The traditional local drink that is brewed here is called ‘Chibuku’. Another marula liquor that is of a higher class is the ‘Amarula’ which is great with icecream. (How Amarula is made)
Africa is the place where things are laid back; it’s the place to relax. The bush and the animals are the best, so beautiful, wild and free. You can never get bored of the wilderness; you could sit and watch the bush space for days. The African bush, makes you feel connected with Mother Earth like nothing else. It’s the thing to experience once in your life. Even as I plan and prepare to immigrate out of this country, I look back at the wonderful years I have spent in this beautiful place and know that my soul will always remain here for a long long time.
History of Botswana
More Botswana pics HERE
**Unless otherwise indicated, all pictures belong to Rachna of Soul Food and have been reproduced with her permission.
Filed Under: animals, Botswana, lifestyle, MUSINGS, national park, Postcards, safari, southern-Africa, TRAVEL, wildlife
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43 Comments
Hi Jai&Bee,
Those pictures are amazing…..thanks for sharing them.
That was a great tour! Thanks Rachana, J & B! You guys rock!
:bow: lovely post Jai and Bee and Rachna for such a informative, lovley post.
Rachna thanks for sharing these amazing pictures
Lovely post 
:bow: :yes: 
Rachna, that’s a fantastic post! Brought back memories of my days in Kenya. We went on safaris but never on boats made out of tree trunks! What an exciting life you lead!
wow! thats a great post! Thanks to rachna for sharing! the pics are amazing!
Jai and Bee and Rachna, thanks for sharing such a wonderful post with us…each picture looks so lovely…and the write up is simply great…:love:
Srivalli
http://www.cooking4allseasons.blogspot.com
That was nice! An insight into the life in Botswana – seems an exciting life!
Rachna, thanks for this awesome post. you made my day.
wait till my brother sees this, he’ll go bonkers and also probably turn green :laugh:
look at those springboks – they’re so elegant. i think i’ll never tire of watching wildebeest herds crossing the masai river or watching over the calves while lionesses lurk beneath the tall grass. discovery and national geographic play these scenes all the time – the tension and drama is awesome.
j’n'b, sooooooooooopar!!!
Hey J & B: Great pictures and loads of information.
Thanks to you both and to Rachna too.
Beautiful pictures and informative post. Rachna, You have done justice to this beautiful country.
Rachna that was a beautiful essay. Enjoyed reading it and the pictures are lovely too. The doughnut you mentioned looks like a huge gulgula that we get in Indian villages. Considering that the caterpillar is so bright colored it is surprising that it is edible.
I had seen a show on Indian adivasis feasting on red ant chutney and had felt pukish at the sight. But once by accident munched on a big ant which decided to fall in my picnic lunch and realised why the adivasis like it so much. It was sour and had a zing!
wow… really an incredible tour… thanks for sharing!!
Dumela everyone
. Rachna, this is really a wonderful tour you took us to! spellbinding!! and thanks Bee and Jai, for taking us to such great excusrsions!
Rachna, great pix and great post, my favourites are the first and last ones. B & J, the Postcards is such a nice idea!
amazing pictures…thanks rachana n J & B for taking me on virtual safari…
Oh man, what a lovely article, what gorgeous photos! Brings back to mind all those years we lived in Tanzania. Thanks for rekindling the memories
Aw thank u so much every one… I had so many pics to show…cudnt decide so put all the rest in a pictorial on Soul Food…
Rachna, that was an awesome safari! Thanks for the lovely pics, all of you.
I would like the doughnut recipe…not deep fried, is it?
Rachna, thanks for the lovely tour. The Mopane Worm sure looks attractive but not sure about eating it though!
Lovely post Rachana, and thanks to J & B for sending it…I was once in contact with Botswana officials, I was working for BEDIA, in Mumbai. I came across this wonderful people from Botswana, though their names are lil gloomy in my memory card, I remember they used to enjoy our Indian food and our culture.
Its a developing nation and lots of Indian Businessmen are laying eyes on setting up their units there. I was dealing that part.
Thanks for sharing those wonderful pics Rachana! :yes: :yes: Its a beautiful country! All those memories gushed in when I saw Botswana on your post.
Oh boy! Felt like I was there! Good job Rachna without the Dum and you too JB! Beautiful pics. Arvind wants to go to Africa one day for a visit!:))
beautiful pics, living there must bring forth such a sense of adventure
that bit about rhino being their own firemen was just tooooo cute ;;)
thank u bee and jay for those kind words about me, you really do understand me so well :embarrass i am a little punjabi, a little malayalee and a whole lot of african…
Anjali – magunya (plural) legunya (singular) – doughnut – really is like a gulgula fermented with yeast, yes yu picked it right
Anita – its deep fried :tongue: and worth it )like the pooris
)
Jai, Bee, and Rachna
Amazing post with some great pictures. I have seen both parts of Gods must be crazy. Really good movie
thank you, dear rachna. this postcard is one of our absolute favourites.- b.
Hi Jai& Bee,
Thanx for the wonderful insight into the Botswana. well i hv a frnd in Kenya.. she used to tell me about Kenyan Safari.. i guess u had a wonderful time.. Thnx for sharing..
Sushma
:yes: That is one awesome post!!!!
swapna, yes ‘the god’s must be crazy I and II” both are really nice…cute cute story… the khoi san people are such sweet people in the stories… I strongly recomend both the movies
This! was some trip. Thanks for bringing it to us Bee & Jai, I’ve been to Rachna’s site and seen some of the beautiful pics too. Look at the life represented and portrayed within. :bow:
Wow,it’s scary enough having your car surrounded by sheep or cows when they are on the move but I’d give elephants a go too! I bet they smell better than sheep!
Rachna is such a fantastic photographer, all those wild life photography was amazing
Thanks for sharing J&B
Lovelyyyyy … really really lovelyy :bow: :bow: Food blogging rocks .. :yes: If it weren’t for Food Blogging I wouldn’t have known such wonderful people.
Very informative.. and we appreciate your effort that went into compiling this.
Great series JB.
Great pictures! all this is like home for me! My son is a animal lover and we have been watching these on Discovery , animal planet and National geographic for the psat 15 years.Masaimara, the great migration,are all so familiar.
Still today my son spent 1/2 hour in your blog!
This was like visiting the pages of my favourite series -No.1 Ladies Detective Agency by Alexander McCall Smith, who paints Botswana in words…
Thanks Rachna for giving us the armchair trip and J B as usual for the great ideas!
Amazing! Will call you Mma Bee
Btw – how come the days have more than 24 hours where you’re from!!! I don’t know how you manage to get EVERYTHING done!!!
all that work was rachna’s. i just sat back and enjoyed the slideshow. – b.
Mma smita… wow you know how we address ppl in bots hey, impressive
Good job Rachna, amazing article vth some great pictures, Kool stuff….Nw make sure u put a similar article for SFO..
Good job Rachna, amazing article vth some great pictures, Kool stuff….Nw make sure u put a similar article for SFO..
I think you will find that the Springboks in the photo’s are actually Impala, as Springboks do not occur in the Kruger (the Kruger being too wet, and Springbok preffering more dry, arid scrub). Springboks are easily identifiable by the black horizontal stripe running across their stomachs, on Impala this stripe is absent.
wow…. extremely good photography and writing. you should be a travel writer… or something like that. I live in botswana too.
I agree with Greg abouit the “Springboks”, also, your”Eland in the bush” is actally a Kudu (Female) The big ears is a dead give-away.
Kudu not an eland